Unheated Rivalry
by Jane Augustine
It’s a bit funny to write about two equally fantastic Bandols made by men with quite opposite personalities. I don’t imagine their interpretation of the métier is that different—make wines that express their terroir—but a vigneron always leaves their mark, and that fascinates me. Reynald Delille of Terrebrune is introspective, lithe, and gentle. He practices aikido when he’s not making wine. The Bandol he crafts is surely in his image: restrained, layered, and precise. Walking through the vineyards with him is like a much-needed silent retreat: observation instead of chatter, mindfulness over ego. By contrast, Alain Pascal, a hulking and charismatic countryman, shouts and whistles as loud as he can to round up his pack of sinewy hunting dogs to join in the vines. Boisterous and wily, they zip around his ankles before jetting from one row to the next. Alain, who used to practice a different sort of martial art—boxing—comes to life in this moment, inviting you into every emotion that overcomes him. His wines? Full of soul, brooding fruit, and generosity. Despite the differences between these vignerons and their wines, Bandol’s character is fierce and imposing, uniting their wines, and the men perhaps, in brotherhood. It’s worth tasting them side by side to experience the yin and the yang of this spectacular appellation.
2022 Bandol Rouge
France | Provence
I hesitate to call any of Alain’s reds “rustic,” as he has worked hard over the years to shake this image. His red is polished and pedigreed, but remains au naturel somehow: uninhibited, unfussy, and raw.
2021 Bandol Rouge
France | Provence
Elegant man, elegant wines. Reynald’s stony terroir also brings class and style to the table. His 2021 is harmonious, ripe with garrigue and wild berries, and bold in all the best ways. It’s firm and full of character but not at all showy.