It’s a bit funny to write about two equally fantastic Bandols made by men with quite opposite personalities. I don’t imagine their interpretation of the métier is that different—make wines that express their terroir—but a vigneron always leaves their mark, and that fascinates me. Reynald Delille of Terrebrune is introspective, lithe, and gentle. He practices aikido when he’s not making wine. The Bandol he crafts is surely in his image: restrained, layered, and precise. Walking through the vineyards with him is like a much-needed silent retreat...

The most recognizable word on this wine’s label is Nebbiolo, but don’t let that give you any ideas—this red is not like others you’ve tasted. We’re technically still in Piedmont at Cantine Garrone, but it’s “Alto” Piemonte, over two hours away from Barolo country, near the Swiss border. The local term for Nebbiolo is Prünent, and after one sip, you’ll see why the distinction makes sense…