Piemonte
by Anthony Lynch
2024 Roero Arneis
Italy | Piedmont
Piemonte is home to a generous cuisine highlighting local specialties such as Fassona breed veal, saucy egg noodles (tajarin), wild mushrooms and foraged truffles, and raw cow’s milk cheeses. Surprisingly, anchovies also feature prominently—a tradition dating back to the Via del Sale, a “salt road” that historically enabled commerce between coastal Liguria and its landlocked neighbor to the north. I presume this is why the Piemontese began producing crisp whites such as this charming, floral Arneis to complement their stacked roster of reds. Nowadays, it serves a similar purpose: a flawless aperitivo to stimulate the senses and pair with lighter fare such as salads and salty snacks from the sea.
2022 Barbera d’Alba Superiore
Italy | Piedmont
Barbera’s hallmark freshness shines through in this concentrated red from a decidedly hot year, giving it a zingy bite to complement its ripe, chewy berry fruit. Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino have once again proven that Barbera is among the most food-friendly reds out there—it’s hard to imagine anything better with homemade red-sauce pasta, grilled Calabrese sausages, or a simple cheeseburger. Served a touch cool, it saturates the taste buds and cleanses the palate all at once.
2021 Barolo “Vigna Lazzairasco”
Italy | Piedmont
After a recent tasting through Guido Porro’s cellar in Serralunga d’Alba, I came away with the feeling that he is making the best wines he’s ever made. Little has changed over the years, although he has recently welcomed his son, Fabio, into the fold, and the duo have revisited certain vineyard practices in response to the evolving climate and with an eye toward sustainability. While Guido is enjoying newfound recognition since acquiring a small slice of the famous Vigna Rionda cru, his steep holdings in Lazzairasco remain the heart and soul of the estate. I noted raspberry, licorice, orange peel, and rain on hot asphalt in this epic 2021, along with a deep structure that is remarkably plush and welcoming.