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2022 Chinon Blanc “Les Charmes”
Charles Joguet
This blanc from Chinon may be the rare bird in a land planted mostly to rouge, but that’s not what makes Les Charmes exceptional; it’s the care. From vines situated in clay and limestone soil, to a long and cold fermentation that coaxes out a wealth of aromas—green apple skin, candied lemon rind, even nips of ginger—to the amount of time the wine spends aging and developing before release (2022 is the current vintage, where most current blancs are on 2024). It’s bright and zesty, but a whiff of clarified butter emerges now and again to do what butter does best: enhance and make it even more savory.
—Allyson Noman
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2022 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Chenin Blanc |
| Appellation: | Chinon |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Charles Joguet |
| Winemaker: | Kevin Fontaine |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 1994 to 1999, 3 ha |
| Soil: | Limestone, clay |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 14% |
More from this Producer or Region
2020 Chinon “Clos du Chêne Vert”
France | Loire
Chinons from Joguet are known for their firm minerality, but this one is quite charming as well, with plummy black fruit and notes of licorice.
2017 Jasnières “Chant de Vigne”
France | Loire
A single-vineyard bottling whose age lends a soft, drawn butter richness to its bright, tart citrus palate.
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
France | Loire
Showing off Cabernet in its most delicate, charming form, rife with aromas of roses, damp earth, and little red berries.
2023 Chinon “Cuvée Terroir”
France | Loire
The perfect combination of tart red fruit, herbaceousness, and graphite earthiness.
2016 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos” MAGNUM
France | Loire
Joguet’s Varennes du Grand Clos has fine-grained tannins that seem to melt into the richness of a marbled steak in an almost magical way.
2025 Chinon Rosé
France | Loire
One of the first rosés Kermit imported, this wine has been consistently delicious for four decades.
2021 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
France | Loire
With floral aromas and fine-grained tannins, it already showcases its charms.
2023 Pouilly-Fumé “Vieilles Vignes”
France | Loire
Sauvignon Blanc has many incarnations throughout the world, but even in the Loire Valley—the grape’s spiritual home—Pouilly Fumé represents a very distinctive example.
2024 Chinon “Les Petites Roches” Blanc
France | Loire
A delightfully lean and bright blanc from Charles Joguet that leaves me yearning to exclaim, “This smells like a green apple picked fresh from a lemon tree!”
2021 Chinon “Clos de la Dioterie”
France | Loire
Age-worthy red from one of Chinon’s top sites, by a storied domaine.
About The Producer
Charles Joguet
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2024 Chardonnay
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2022 Vouvray “Bois Guyon”
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2022 Jasnières “Dyane”
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2023 Sancerre “Les Cris”
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2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Cuvée des Bénédictins”
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2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
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2022 Vouvray “Le Portail”
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2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
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2024 Vouvray “La Dilettante”
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2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
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2022 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
Domaine des Roches Neuves France | Loire
2023 Chinon Blanc
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2024 Chardonnay
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2022 Vouvray “Bois Guyon”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2022 Jasnières “Dyane”
Christine de Mianville France | Loire
2023 Sancerre “Les Cris”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Cuvée des Bénédictins”
Prieuré de Saint Céols France | Loire
2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2022 Vouvray “Le Portail”
Champalou France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Vouvray “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
Prieuré de Saint Céols France | Loire
2022 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
Domaine des Roches Neuves France | Loire
2023 Chinon Blanc
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch