Chablis
by Allyson Noman
2023 Chablis “Vaux Carrés”
France | Burgundy
This bottle reminds me of when I first began collecting records. I started hunting through garage sales and vintage shops, picking up albums like Frank Sinatra’s Come Dance with Me and Billie Holiday’s The Lady Sings. These quintessential recordings shaped my understanding of the mid-century. Likewise, Lavantureux captures the qualities so inherent to Chablis: a glass full of chalky limestone soil and crushed oyster shell, lemon peel with hints of green apple… Like those records, it sings with an enduring style that’s especially evocative when captured by a master. Chablis doesn’t get much more classic than this.
2025 Petit Chablis
France | Burgundy
Contrary to what the jokers of the world like to claim, the difference between Petit Chablis and Chablis is not that one is smaller. The Portlandian limestone prevalent throughout Petit Chablis is about 20 million years younger than the Kimmeridgian limestone that defines the Chablis appellation, and produces youthful wines with more citrus flower than citrus zest, more ready-to-drink stony freshness than mineral austerity. Savary’s rendition is one I’ll happily open any night of the week.
2024 Chablis 1er Cru “Montée de Tonnerre”
France | Burgundy
There is good reason Montée de Tonnerre is considered the crown jewel of the premiers crus of Chablis. It is, after all, right next door to renowned grand cru Les Clos and enjoys the gently warming morning sun from its southwest exposition, imbuing it with the best of Chablisien typicity that will grow more lavish with age.
The Costal wines are a collaboration between Kermit and the Collet family, and this bottling is the newest to their lineup. I found it so enjoyable that I hesitate to say opening it now would be a disservice, but there truly may be no better value when looking to cellar Chablis! This stellar bottle is sure to evolve into greatness after a decade, and beyond—if only you can resist the temptation.