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Why Isn’t More Cabernet Sauvignon Made This Way?

Why Isn’t More Cabernet Sauvignon Made This Way?

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2024 Pays d’Oc Cabernet Sauvignon “Les Traverses”

2024 Pays d’Oc Cabernet Sauvignon “Les Traverses”

Château Fontanès   

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Château Fontanès    France   |  Languedoc-Roussillon   |  Vin de Pays d’Oc

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Pic Saint-Loup is one of our favorite appellations in all of France, and we’ve turned to a handful of very thoughtful growers there over the last several decades to produce fresh and delicious wines in all three colors. For the most part, these are blends of classic southern grapes, but in one exception to the rule, vigneron Cyriaque Rozier stumbled upon a parcel of old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon that was so attractive he couldn’t resist vinifying it alone. Having worked and studied extensively in Bordeaux in his youth, Cyriaque was familiar with Cabernet before moving to Pic Saint-Loup, but he didn’t want to recreate a Bordelais expression of the grape. 
     He was excited to buy these old vines in the shadow of the Pic Saint-Loup, a dramatic limestone outcrop towering over the Languedoc landscape, because he identified a potential to pursue a light vinification aiming for aromatic freshness rather than heaviness, concentration, and excessive oak. With the help of six horses—Dasko, Vaillant, Flipper, Sauterelle, Canelle, and Hiris—Cyriaque farms his Cabernet organically and biodynamically, and when you taste this lithe red, you can’t help but feel the grapes have been pampered from beginning to end. With notes of blackberry, graphite, and a whisper of licorice, this is pure, pretty, and soulful Cabernet Sauvignon with a southern twist. Many of us at KLWM wish more of it were made this way.

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About The Region

Languedoc-Roussillon

map of Languedoc-Roussillon

Ask wine drinkers around the world, and the word “Languedoc” is sure to elicit mixed reactions. On the one hand, the region is still strongly tied to its past as a producer of cheap, insipid bulk wine in the eyes of many consumers. On the other hand, it is the source of countless great values providing affordable everyday pleasure, with an increasing number of higher-end wines capable of rivaling the best from other parts of France.

While there’s no denying the Languedoc’s checkered history, the last two decades have seen a noticeable shift to fine wine, with an emphasis on terroir. Ambitious growers have sought out vineyard sites with poor, well draining soils in hilly zones, curbed back on irrigation and the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, and looked to balance traditional production methods with technological advancements to craft wines with elegance, balance, and a clear sense of place. Today, the overall quality and variety of wines being made in the Languedoc is as high as ever.

Shaped like a crescent hugging the Mediterranean coast, the region boasts an enormous variety of soil types and microclimates depending on elevation, exposition, and relative distance from the coastline and the cooler foothills farther inland. While the warm Mediterranean climate is conducive to the production of reds, there are world-class whites and rosés to be found as well, along with stunning dessert wines revered by connoisseurs for centuries.

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