Vouvray’s wine is a product of what we call the Chenin Blanc grape, but I prefer the local name, Pineau de la Loire, and [René] Loyau is of the opinion that the original plantings of Pineau were Pinot, the Chardonnay, imported to Vouvray from Burgundy. Over sixteen centuries or more, the plant evolved ever so slowly as it adapted to Vouvray’s soil and climate. Even today, Loyau says, certain Vouvrays show a striking aromatic kinship to the Chardonnays of the Côte d’Or. I have no opinion beyond finding Loyau’s theory intriguing; however, I can say that the aroma of a good Vouvray is more reminiscent of Meursault (minus the new oak) than it is of the California rendition of Chenin Blanc.
     Although produced from this single grape variety, Vouvray yields more than a single type of wine. The fact that Vouvray appears in several different guises must render it difficult for the public to comprehend. But once sorted out, the multiple personalities of Vouvray become an attraction, a complete little cosmos of wines ranging from gay to profound.
     Vouvray can be a sparkling wine with a froth like Champagne’s. Such bottles are labeled Vouvray Mousseux.
     Or it can offer a more delicate bead, and these are labeled Vouvray Pétillant, whose light sparkle might arise intentionally or not, because in the traditional cold chalk cellars, Vouvray exhibits a natural desire to pétiller, or sparkle. A generous dose of sulfur dioxide will suppress this desire, but that is a bit like whipping a dog for wagging its tail. Instead, one might regard Vouvray’s tendency to pétiller, to revisit the ebullient days of its infancy, as an additional charm. What harm is there in a subtle effervescence, a liveliness on the palate, which also serves to propel and rejuvenate the aroma? For some reason, many tasters seem to be threatened by such a spirited display of energy, so most Vouvray producers resort to all sorts of technical shenanigans to keep their wine still. Vouvray Pétillant has practically disappeared from the marketplace. When I imported a few cases, customers returned it because they thought it was still fermenting. In the Vouvray cellars, however, the pétillant continues to be produced. It is poured for friends and downed with great pleasure.
     As for still Vouvrays, they can be dry (sec), off-dry (demi-sec), or unctuous and botrytized like Sauternes (moelleux). They can be fresh, seductive wines that drink well right out of the barrel, or perfectly developed old masterpieces after several decades.