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2022 Alto Adige Sauvignon “Voglar”

Peter Dipoli

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No simple summer sipper, Felix Bampi’s Voglar is a complex work of art that will defy everything you think you know about Italian wine. By continuing the estate’s tradition of extended élevage—in this case, the wine spends eight months in acacia barrels and then two more years in the bottle before release—Felix challenges the notion that Sauvignon Blanc can’t age. The 2022 vintage is fruit-forward yet remarkably precise. It beams with wet stones, ripe apricot, elderflower, and an Alpine whisper of pine resin. Creamy yet intensely chiseled, it has a structural depth that cuts beautifully through local canederli, a savory bread dumpling tossed in brown butter. Best of all, there is no need to wait; Felix has already aged this wine to perfection.

—Joanie Bonfiglio

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2022
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Sauvignon Blanc
Appellation: Alto Adige
Country: Italy
Region: Alto Adige
Producer: Peter Dipoli
Winemaker: Peter Dipoli
Vineyard: Planted in 1990
Soil: Chalk, dolomite, limestone
Farming: Sustainable
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Alto Adige

map of Alto Adige

In the heart of the Dolomites, Alto Adige is Italy’s northernmost wine region. Having changed hands multiples times in its history between Italy and the Austro-Hungarian Empire (it shares a border with Austria), it boasts strong Germanic influence on its culture, language, cuisine, as well as its wines.

The mountainous geography is the principal determinant of local winemaking styles, with the high-altitude vineyards and cool Alpine climate favoring primarily crisp, racy, aromatic whites from varieties like Kerner, Sauvignon, Müller Thurgau, and Grüner Veltliner. A Mediterranean influence on climate is channeled north up the valley until Bolzano, permitting the cultivation of certain reds as well, among which Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Nero, and Merlot fare best.

Small growers who once sold fruit to the area’s multiple co-ops are now increasingly bottling their own wines. The arrival of many quality-oriented artisans on the scene caught our eye years ago, and we now count three estates from Südtirol, as it is also known, in our portfolio. These high-acid mountain wines make for a beautifully invigorating aperitivo with thinly sliced speck, a local specialty.

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171

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