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Twenty Cases of Pure Joy
Twenty Cases of Pure Joy
by Anthony Lynch by Anthony Lynch
2025 Grolleau “Franc de Pied”
2025 Grolleau “Franc de Pied”
Matthieu Baudry in his vines
Bernard Baudry, center, with his son Matthieu, right, and grandson Maxime
Domaine Bernard Baudry
The varied terroirs of Domaine Baudry
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
Vignerons can be sneaky people. Take Matthieu Baudry, who nonchalantly handed me a bottle—as if it were an afterthought—following an outstanding tasting at his family domaine near Chinon a few summers ago. He muttered something along the lines of “I do this on the side, for fun” as I stared at him inquisitively, the look on my face asking, Were you trying to hide this from me?!
The wine in question is a Grolleau produced from 15-year-old ungrafted—franc de pied— vines in a small sandy parcel on the banks of the Vienne, a tributary to the Loire that has carved out some of the finest terroirs in the great Chinon appellation. Once widely planted in its native Loire Valley, Grolleau can still be found in certain pockets, but requires the hand of a skilled vigneron to check its high-yielding nature. Matthieu gives his Grolleau a six-day maceration and ages it in tank, producing a juicy libation brimming with lively fruit marked by the silky, sensuous texture of an unfiltered bottling. Brambly berries and lifted floral notes combine with an earthy coolness and touch of spice in this red whose low alcohol level makes it even easier to fervently slurp down.
While it does not carry the heft or nuance of Matthieu’s Chinon bottlings, this cuvée—served chilled, of course—has an irresistible, easygoing nature that makes it totally quaffable. He was able to spare twenty cases of his “afterthought,” and we are thrilled to carry it.
Matthieu Baudry in his vines
Bernard Baudry, center, with his son Matthieu, right, and grandson Maxime
Domaine Bernard Baudry
The varied terroirs of Domaine Baudry
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2025 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Grolleau |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Bernard Baudry |
| Winemaker: | Matthieu Baudry |
| Vineyard: | Vines planted in 2011 |
| Soil: | Sand, yellow limestone |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 11.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2023 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
France | Loire
Les Grézeaux comes from the Baudry’s oldest vines, which yield a concentrated and silky rouge that is ready to drink today but will age beautifully.
2021 Chinon “La Croix Boissée”
France | Loire
This is the grandest bottling of Cabernet Franc from one of Chinon’s most outstanding producers.
2024 Chinon “Les Granges”
France | Loire
Les Granges is the Baudry cuvée to drink in its youth, while the perfume of rose petals and brambly berries is at its most vivid and vibrant.
2022 Chinon “Le Clos Guillot”
France | Loire
With a glance at the dark purple color—the hue of a Kalamata olive—and a sniff of the nose heavy on dark ripe fruit and black tea, I get a little giddy. I can tell I’m going to enjoy this.
2023 Chinon Blanc
France | Loire
A rare Chenin Blanc from the land of Cabernet Franc, it is ultra fresh and brimming with citrus blossom and orchard fruit notes.
2023 Chinon “Le Domaine”
France | Loire
It’s a textbook Chinon, and you’ll struggle to find a red as authentic and perfectly suited to your fall table.
2024 Vin de France Brut Nature “Elle est pas bulle la vie?”
France | Loire
Delicious and honest naturally sparkling Chenin, bottled with no dosage and no sulfur.
2022 Savennières Roche aux Moines “Clos de Rochepin”
France | Loire
A serious, cellar-worthy white wine made for serious white wine drinkers!
2024 Chinon Blanc “Les Petites Roches”
France | Loire
A delightfully lean and bright blanc from Charles Joguet that leaves me yearning to exclaim, “This smells like a green apple picked fresh from a lemon tree!”
2025 Chinon “Le Rosé”
France | Loire
Matthieu Baudry captures both youthful fruit and energizing mineral textures with this rosé.
About The Producer
Bernard Baudry
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2024 Sancerre
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2021 Saumur Champigny “Outre Terre”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2025 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2025 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
Prieuré de Saint Céols France | Loire
2023 Chinon Blanc
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2023 Quincy “Vieilles Vignes”
Domaine Trotereau France | Loire
2025 Jasnières
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2023 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Vouvray “Pierres Rousses”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2024 Sancerre
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2021 Saumur Champigny “Outre Terre”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2025 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2025 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
Prieuré de Saint Céols France | Loire
2023 Chinon Blanc
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2023 Quincy “Vieilles Vignes”
Domaine Trotereau France | Loire
2025 Jasnières
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2023 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Vouvray “Pierres Rousses”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
A good doctor prescribed the wine of Nuits-Saint-Georges to the Sun King, Louis XIV, when he suffered an unknown maladie. When the king’s health was restored the tasty remedy enjoyed a vogue at court. Lord, send me a doctor like that!
Inspiring Thirst, page 117