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2023 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
Bernard Baudry
One of my favorite corners in Baudry’s tasting room (second only to their gallery wall of local pairing menus from celebrations of the last century) is an illuminating display of soil samples from all of their vineyards. A geological rainbow, this cross-section offers a glimpse below the surface of the differences in terroir we usually perceive only in our glasses. Les Grézeaux comes from a deep gray, gravelly clay that hosts the family’s oldest—over sixty-five-year-old—vines. This luxurious Chinon tastes fresh, brambly, and lived-in, like the loose weave of a well-worn sweater.
—Jane Augustine
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Cabernet Franc |
| Appellation: | Chinon |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Bernard Baudry |
| Winemaker: | Matthieu & Bernard Baudry |
| Vineyard: | 65 years, 3 ha |
| Soil: | Gravel |
| Aging: | Aged for twelve months in barrel and are not fined or filtered |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 12.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
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2020 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
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At first, it is streamlined, saline, and full of lemon. Then the granite terroir kicks in...
2024 Chinon “Les Granges”
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About The Producer
Bernard Baudry
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2021 Vin de France Blanche
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2024 Vouvray
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2024 Quincy
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2024 Bourgueil “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Bourgeuil “Cuvée Beauvais”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2022 Coteaux du Loir Rouge “Cuvée du Rosier”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2024 Muscadet “Le Clos de la Butte”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2020 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
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2016 Jasnières “Chant de Vigne”
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2024 Saumur Blanc “L’Insolite”
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch