Salina, the volcanic island off the northern coast of Sicily, is nothing short of a Mediterranean paradise. An extinct volcano rising out of the sea, it is home to striking vegetation of native flowers, cacti, and wild caper bushes, with steep craters tumbling down to black sand beaches and sparkling blue waters. The island also features local grape varieties, and not just the white Malvasia di Lipari, which produces irresistibly perfumed dry and sweet whites.
     In this bottling from Aeolian wine maestro Antonino Caravaglio, the indigenous Corinto Nero shares the stage with other Sicilian grapes, including Nerello Mascalese and Calabrese. This medley translates the island’s eruptive nature with a vibrant energy, offering otherworldly red fruit seasoned with smoky, peppery nuances that recall the ashy volcanic soil. It takes well to a chill and brilliantly complements a grilled tuna steak or pasta with pesto made from your choice of aromatic herbs, with capers thrown in for good measure to match the wine’s savory core.

If you asked me to name just one Achilles heel of the Burgundy classification system—there are a few tempting choices—I would argue it’s that Nuits-Saint-Georges doesn’t have any grand cru vineyards among its roughly three hundred hectares of vines. Because what do you mean Nuits-Saint-Georges’ Domaine Chevillon, one of the greatest, most consistent addresses in the Côte d’Or, doesn’t produce any grand cru wine!? In truth, I kind of relish this peculiarity: whether it’s an underdog story or a tasty tale of bureaucratic oversight, year after year, Domaine Chevillon’s Nuits-Saint-Georges go toe-to-toe with many of the Côte de Nuits’ finest grand cru Pinot Noirs.
     Our partnership with the Chevillon family goes back almost five decades, and for reasons of timing, legacy, family dynamics, consistency, and even to some extent the wines’ character, I can’t help but think of them as our Vieux Télégraphe in Burgundy. A tip from Hubert de Montille led Kermit to Robert Chevillon’s door in 1980, and in the ensuing decade, Mr. Chevillon showed an unbelievable knack for producing impeccable reds no matter the vintage—a superpower that remains core to the domaine these days under the leadership of his sons Denis and Bertrand. Thanks to old vines, small yields, the village’s best terroirs, and traditional winemaking methods, their Nuits-Saint-Georges tend to be muscular, pure, and soulful, built for gorgeous evolution over decades. There’s a reason why colleagues and I stash some away any chance we get.

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2–7 P.M.
Presented by Prizefighter and The Salty Pearl

You may know our line of Bèrto vermouths, but we also import their liqueurs and dry gin! Join us, along with Bèrto Export Director, Luca Marchairo, in the café next to our Berkeley shop for the first spotlight on these Piemontese selections. Cocktails! Wine! Oysters! Cin cin!