Truly classic Vieux Télégraphe, deep and powerful as usual, yet showing great finesse and class, almost an ethereal quality.

Full-bodied yet delicate, infused with the joie de vivre of the south of France.

Clairette, an unsung hero of the south, is the main grape here, undoubtedly one of many key elements to this singular wine.

Deep, concentrated, and refreshingly saline, this is like great Cornas with Mediterranean influences.

The flavors are mostly deep and dark—stones, licorice, black olive, and blackberry—but the frame is lithe.

A dry sparkler made exclusively from Clairette.

Clos La Roquète’s blanc is luscious, yet finishes nice and dry with striking acidity.

If Télégramme is more about fruit than stones, it is still undeniably Châteauneuf, expressing the nobility of carefully farmed Grenache from the Rhône’s finest terroirs.

There’s a gentle veil of minerality, and the nose is expansive, making way for notes that are more spiced than fruity.

If there were a Hall of Fame for French bistro reds, Poignée would be a first-ballot inductee—vibrant and classy, it’s the southern France counterpart to our favorite Morgons.