I’ll never forget the first time I drove between Tavel and the Pont du Gard. A steady, late-winter rain fell on this largely untrodden corner of the Rhône Valley. Outside were rows upon rows of gnarled old vines, which were at one point demarcated by a humble sign: Les Vignerons d’Estézargues.
     The modesty of the sign—and the region as a whole—belie the fact that Estézargues, the co-op that produces this custom Côtes du Rhône Villages for us, is an extraordinary operation. For starters, they benefit from fabulous terroirs that are defined by the same polished riverbed stones known as galets roulés that you find in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, just half an hour away. Second, the older age of Estézargues’ vines allow their roots to dig deep and access precious water reserves even into the hot summer months, preserving a freshness and elegance that is essential to their wines. Finally, for most of its sixty-year history, Les Vignerons d’Estézargues have pursued progressive farming and winemaking, working closely with its partner growers to emphasize organic viticulture before ushering the pristine fruit through low-intervention practices in the cellar.
     Their wealth of old Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault, destined for humble regional bottlings like our Côtes du Rhône Villages, is what makes the Gard such an exceptional and undervalued wine region. The resulting country red is filled with soul in every sense of the word. Brambly, rustic, savory, and joyous, this is as perfect a house red from the Rhône as you’ll find.