If Télégramme is more about fruit than stones, it is still undeniably Châteauneuf, expressing the nobility of carefully farmed Grenache from the Rhône’s finest terroirs.

It’s a gem, and you won’t be disappointed.

Clairette, an unsung hero of the south, is the main grape here, undoubtedly one of many key elements to this singular wine.

Grenache is joined by Syrah and a drop of Mourvèdre to create this delightful everyday red scented of herbes de Provence and ripe black cherry.

There’s a gentle veil of minerality, and the nose is expansive, making way for notes that are more spiced than fruity.

This is about as quaffable as the region’s rouges get.

Deep, concentrated, and refreshingly saline, this is like great Cornas with Mediterranean influences.

The palate is dense and ripe, yet wonderfully smooth and elegant. Racines seems to tap into the history of Les Pallières, the prestige and the high-toned elegance.

Leydiers at Domaine de Durban are particularly proud of their Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a vin doux naturel, as they are among the last to craft it in the traditional style.

A relatively rare beast, Serge’s blanc is a ripe, honey-infused cornucopia of fruit.